FROM THIS
TO THIS
Minimum Tools Required
11MM deep socket
Ratchet to fit the socket
Small flat screw driver
Panel Tool
If you have a Shaker 1000 add
13MM deep socket
8MM socket
at least 12 inches of extension
If you have the Shaker 1000 system you will want to start by removing the Speakers from the trunk. It is held in by 2 bolts at the top(requires the 13mm socket) 1nut at the bottom, back (requires the 13mm socket), and 2 small bolts at the bottom front (requires the 8mm socket). The pictures below have the four locations highlighted.
As you can see the extra long extension will make it easier to use your ratchet and helps to prevent scratching the speaker box. After all bolts are out you will need to pick up the front of the box then move the whole box towards the inside of the trunk about 3 or 4 inches, this will provide you the room to disconnect the wiring harness from the amps by pressing the quick release on the top two connectors. The wires are taped to the back of the speaker box to make it easier when putting it back in (keeps them from getting under the box and getting damaged)
The next step is to remove the Amps. You will use the 13mm socket again. The amps are held in with 3 bolts and one nut. Again the pictures below will show you the location.
Things start to move a lot quicker now. Remove the tire inflation kit cover and carpet. It comes out by just lifting it up and pulling toward the rear of the car. You might have to lower the rear seats to free the carpet at the front of the trunk.
This gives you access to remove the trim from the very back of the trunk. The pictures below will show the location of the two twist locks and 4 push pins. Remove the 2 twist pins just like you would any other nut. The 4 push pins can be removed by (I used my finger nails) a small flat head screwdriver. Carefully lift the center pin which will allow for the outer pin to slip out. (see pictures below)
Now you can just lift out the plastic trim. You will have to work it slowly over the trunk striker plate. This is where you use that 25.00 panel tool on the drivers side. The picture below shows the tool and how to use it. DO NOT try to pull the plug with the tool positioned like it is in the picture. Place the tool so that it applies force directly above the plastic fastener. After you remove that push pin you will have one bolt (almost right above the pin) to remove and that panel can be moved out of the way. If you do not have the panel tool don't worry if you are carefull you just pull it out of the way to remove the tail light nuts.
It is finally time to remove the tail lights. I did them one at a time. In the picture below you will see the three 11mm nuts that will need to be removed. Mine were only finger tight. Before you take the last nut off unplug the light and carefully push the grommet back through the hole. Now take the last nut off and use the studs to slowly push the light out of the car. Use your free hand to catch the light and keep it from scratching the bumper. I didn't do it and got lucky but you might want to put down some blue painters tape on the bumper to prevent scratches.
After you have the assembly out, the back will look like the picture on the left below. All you have to do is take the factory wire harness off, remove the bulbs, put them in the new harness and re install in the housing. On both the passenger and driver sides tail lights all 4 bulbs come out by turning cournter clockwise about 1/8 a turn and go back in the same way, but clockwise. Picture on the left is stock, picture on the right is after the change.
OK on the passenger side of the car I did not remove the inner panel because there is a dimple around the push pin and I didn't want to screw up that panel with the tool. Below is a picture of how I took that side off. Just be careful not to put a crease in the panel.
Reverse the order of the above and put it all back together! If you have any questions about this feel free to e-mail me via the Contact us link! I hope you enjoyed the pictoral and enjoy that BULLITT